Dipsophile should first declare an interest. He has known the current landlord of the Phoenix for over thirty years. Last year, when the pub was refurbished, Dipsophile helped to document the project in photographs.
After extensive building work the pub reopened in March 2008. Since then we’ve been for the odd drink, but we had never eaten there. Until now – and it is a pleasure to say that we can recommend it wholeheartedly.
In the dark and gloomy days just after the New Year, we joined some friends at the Phoenix for Sunday lunch. There were seven of us.
Most of the party chose the roast (roast chicken, lamb or sirloin of beef, served with carrots, green beans, cauliflower cheese, braised red cabbage, roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and gravy, £9.95).
But Dipsophile has a jaundiced view of pub roasts, having seen too many plates of wafer-thin frozen beef microwaved and served up with watery gravy. So Dipsophile chose the sausage and mash (pork and herb sausages with wholegrain mustard mash and gravy £6.95) and Dipsophile No 1 son chose ham, egg and chips (£6.95).
Just for completeness, we should mention that they also do a main course of fish and chips (haddock, chips and mushy peas £6.95). They also do starters (home made soup, garlic bread, prawns, gnocchi, terrine, priced between £2.50 and £4.00 or so) and puddings (chocolate brownie and ice cream, chocolate and orange bread and butter pudding, mulled wine poached pears, ice cream, Banoffee pie, all at £2.95).
So how was the food? Well, Dipsophile should have ignored his prejudices. The Phoenix roasts were absolutely fantastic. Thick cut, tender roast meat, served with lashings of vegetables cooked just right and roast potatoes done to a turn; Yorkshire puddings that would have made Norah Batty green with envy; and wonderful gravy.
At this point there might have been wailing and gnashing of teeth, Dipsophile and son having missed out on the roast. But our food was superb – really tasty, unctuous bangers and mash, and a large portion of proper ham, egg and chips that ultimately defeated even our seventeen year old eating machine.
The afternoon passed in a relaxed way. Several of the party had puddings and the verdict was just as good as the main course. Our drinks were an eclectic mix of gins and tonic, real ales (they keep four) and a Rioja (good and reasonably priced).
At five it was finally time to go (we’d arrived at one!). The bill including a couple of bottles of Rioja was about £95 or, including a tip, £15 a head. As the late Bill Deedes used to say “Shome mishtake shurely?” In fact there wasn’t a mistake. It’s just very good value for money.
Certainly for Sunday lunch the Phoenix is highly recommended. Do catch it while winter is still here and an extended lunch fits the bill. In summer, the garden running down to the river means the place takes on a different (but still very pleasant) atmosphere and you might want to be outside.
As for the rest of the week, we assume that the quality and the friendly service we noted on a Sunday will carry through to their weekday menus. We look forward to finding out if this is the case.
Logistics
The Sunday menu is served from 12 noon to 7pm. They do not at the time of writing operate bookings, so do get there early if you want to eat.
If arriving by car, you’ll probably be able to park in The Avenue and walk the 50 or 100 yards to the pub.
The Phoenix 26-28, Thames St, Sunbury-On-Thames, Middlesex, TW16
Tel: 0871 917 0007
